Wednesday, April 13, 2011

The Camino de Santiago, Spain

Day 1: (14K) We started with a half day in Sarria, Spain, where we had an incredible meal and George dropped his pants in the restaurant. (He had on another pair beneath.) Over hills and through woods, water-filled trails and cow dung, we trod and finally found an alburgue in which to stay -- bunks and 20 other folks in the dorm. Weyland was treated to 2 German girls dropping their pants to crawl into their bunks. (He spent the rest of the trip muttering "how can you walk 15 miles a day in a blue thong?) TODAY we were thankful for a bed -- it was late and we were beginning to worry.
Day 2: (34+K) Our first full day was long, delightfully filled with lush grasses, farmers, and good weather. A long day but at last a hotel of sorts in Hospital de la Cruz. A cold night, a bad food day. TODAY we were thankful for hot water -- very hot water!

Day 3: (25-28 K) Our longest day of walking, up and down mountains, beside rivers, chatting with farmers on the way. It was the day my boots began to separate but a bit of glue and yellow duct tape did the job. We intentionally set our goal for Melide and the "best pulperia" in the area. At Ezequiel's Pulperia, we feasted on Pulpo Gallego (local octopus dish), cheese with membrillo, salad, potatoes, fantastic bread. We were also introduced to the Albarino (a much touted white wine) and St. James cake, a treat we would enjoy often. TODAY we were obviously thankful for food. The food of northern Spain was unbelievably fresh and delicious.
For photos of Day 3, click below:

Day 4: A real day in the country with horses, dairy herds, sheep and pathways under cloudy but dry skies. Since a great part of the adventure was "giving ourselves to the Camino", we had no way to be sure of where we would spend the night or where we would eat. We had goals and hopes but no reservations. It was amazing that we always found decent and reasonably priced housing and, for the most part, fantastically good fresh meals. Sometimes even my Spanish did not identify exactly what we were ordering, but we were not disapointed. One day, our camera battery died ... just outside a cafe/bar where we needed to sit out a rain shower, have a hot chocolate and charge up the camera. TODAY we were thankful that good food, a warm room, and good hot water all came together again. And, always clean -- always clean.
Day 5: Nothing made the journey more wonderful than the people along the way. A man who literally begged me to take an orange from him when I commented that I was looking for a place for breakfast. A restaurant owner who cooked us a special meal even though it was "off the menu" by that time of evening. Advice on where to find "habitaciones" or food or glue for the boots -- never failed to be just right. Shop keepers who usually followed us into the street to point out directions. Fellow pilgrims from all over the world, shared a chat along the way and crossed our paths again and again. We met only one other American but shared our path with Germans, French, Czechs, Aussies, Kiwis, a group of Chinese students, etc. TODAY we were thankful for the people who helped us on our way. Friends to pilgrims. "Buen Camino."
Click below for days 4 & 5 -- a short set of photos

As pilgrims have done for over a thousand years, we completed our journey at the Cathedral of Santiago. Our last half day began in Arco de Pino with heavy clouds. We were within 8 miles of the city when we saw the predicted rains of Galicia, Spain. Into town seemed uphill all the way -- past the airport and into the industrail Santiago. At Monte de Gozo, pilgrims prepared for their entry to the city they could see ahead. We wrapped in our rain gear and trudged on. Boots began to leak and we struggled to keep track of the golden scallop shells in the sidewalks that marked our way. And ... at last ... we stood in the courtyard to view the magnificence of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. It was an indescribable moment with a rush of thanksgiving and relief. We had done it!
From the courtyard rains, we made our way to the Pilgrim Office to present our stamped credentials (2 stamps per day) and receive our official Compostela. Then we treated ourselves to a nice hotel, food and rest for church in the morning. TODAY we were thankful for the rain because it made us so aware of the blessing of good weather we had experienced for the 4 1/2 previous days.
To complete our journey, we attended Sunday mass at the Cathedral, walked behind the statue of St. James to give him a hug, and queued up to see the silver casket where his bones are presumed to be. Of course, we finished with a final morning of souvenir shopping, photo taking and even another visit to the Cathedral.
(I still have photos of our 2 days in Madrid and Toledo but refuse to subject you to them ... so ... by request ... Madrid and Toledo are to be had.)
For our final days and Santiago de Compostela, click below:

For those of you who held out to the end ... a few shots of Madrid and Toledo Spain. I must admit I was down to looking and eating by this time so don't have a lot of these beautiful cities to show but ... just smell the chocolate and churros at San Ginese and that is sufficient.
We have traveled a lot but never in this walking mode of a centuries old trek. It is the one trip I would do again and again and again.